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Textiles and clothing to the United Kingdom

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(Last updated: 10 Jun 2007)

Trends and opportunities

The market

The UK clothing sector is worth around $71 billion, a third of which is imported. Imports are growing at 13 per cent, one-third of which come from China, Hong Kong and Turkey. Sixty per cent of exports go to non-European Union (EU) countries.


Clothing sector breakdown:

  • womenswear - 53 per cent
  • menswear - 26 per cent
  • childrenswear - 20 per cent
  • accessories - 1.6 per cent

The industry has suffered from overseas competition with lower production and labour costs. In response, one of the UK’s leading retailers, Marks & Spencer has shifted 70 per cent of its sourcing to overseas suppliers. Other retailers are following suit, moving an increasing proportion of production overseas and demanding lower prices and reduced delivery times from existing suppliers. 


The market has polarised with demand for aspirational brands at the higher end of the market and value-for-money at the budget end. The middle market has suffered from declining sales and increasing consolidation. 


Clothing retailing in the UK continues to undergo consolidation with larger retailers increasing their market share at the expense of small independents.

  • multiples - 25 per cent (increasing)
  • variety stores - 17 per cent (steady)
  • independents - 11 per cent (declining)
  • home shopping - 10 per cent (increasing)
  • department stores - 9 per cent (increasing)
  • discounters - 7 per cent (increasing)
  • sport shops - 7 per cent (increasing)
  • supermarkets - 2.7 per cent (increasing)
  • market stalls - 2.2 per cent (increasing)
  • other outlets including online shopping - 3.9 per cent (increasing)

The slowdown in UK apparel manufacturing has had an adverse effect on fabric and textile imports. Despite the overall decline, textile imports from China, Egypt, Pakistan and Turkey have reported substantial increases.


Textile segments:

  • cotton and silk - 20 per cent
  • woollen and worsted - 13 per cent
  • household textiles - 15 per cent (the UK home textiles market is worth around $3 billion)
  • man-made fibres - 15 per cent
  • other textiles - 15 per cent
  • textile finishing - 10 per cent

(Source: Euromonitor)


The main influences on the level of purchases in clothing and textiles sector include:

  • rising incomes
  • increased consumer confidence and spending
  • wider use and acceptance of credit and store cards
  • improvement in the design offering
  • education of consumers through TV and magazines

Opportunities

The UK clothing sector is extremely competitive, however, niche opportunities exist for:

  • innovative design and fabrics
  • high quality, high end products
  • designer-wear
  • swimwear
  • surf/streetwear

In textiles, there are opportunities for fabrics and textiles that are of high quality, innovative and competitively priced. Applications include contract furnishing fabrics, clothing fabrics and home textiles.


Both sectors are highly competitive and price is an important issue with the exception for high fashion, designer items.

Competitive environment

While the UK remains a major textiles supplier of artificial fibres, the bulk of natural fabrics are imported. Most fine wool is sourced from Australia and New Zealand and cotton is supplied from Greece, Spain, Turkey and the Central Asian Republics.

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Tariffs, regulations and customs

Value added tax (VAT) is levied on all clothing and textile products at the full 17.5 per cent. The exceptions are childrens' clothing and shoes, which are VAT free.


Some textiles from Australia will require an import license. Get your importer to check with the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI).


Textiles and textile products made in third countries may be subject to quota, licenses for which are usually granted on a first-come-first-served basis.


UK legislation for clothes and textiles include:

  • Fabric content expressed in percentages
  • Country of origin
  • Washing and care instructions
  • Flammability performance
  • Child safety issues, such as draw-strings

Safety or protective clothing is covered under the Europe-wide CE Mark law, the Personal Protective Equipment Directive. Any product fitting under this legislation must go through a testing process and must be marked with a CE Mark before being offered for sale in the UK or Europe.


The way products are packaged, sold and/or produced will dictate the tariff(s) that apply. The UK is part of the harmonised trade system of the European Union (EU). Common Customs Tariff is applicable to goods from non-EU countries, including Australia. Most duties are ad valorem, based on the GATT Valuation Code (approximate CIF value).


Before shipping any goods to Europe, you should obtain a written customs duty ruling from the UK customs service. These rulings are called Binding Tariff Information (BTI). Getting a BTI is free and will prevent any conflict over customs or excise duty.

Industry standards

There are British Standards, which govern the flame-proof and child-proof properties of clothing.

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Marketing your products and services

Market entry

Suppliers of clothing and textiles in the UK have a variety of possible channels:

  • Retailers
  • Mail order sellers and e-tailers
  • UK manufacturers
  • Direct sales to consumers – this needs massive logistical support from the supplier

In order to succeed with any of these channels, you will need a presence in the UK. Category management is common, and buyers reduce sales costs by limiting the number of suppliers.


Market entry strategies include:

  • Appointing a distribution partner to handle importing and customer liaison
  • Managing the customer base from Australia and find a fulfilment company to warehouse and ship to the customers
  • Setting up an office in the UK
  • Sending one of your staff to the UK as a representative
  • Sharing distribution with another Australian company – preferably with a synergistic product range
  • Manufacturing your products in the UK under contract or license
  • Undertaking a joint venture with a UK company

The most effective is probably appointing a distribution partner. A UK company will understand how to best present your products, comment on changes to your packaging and will understand how to place the product in the market. These skills take time to acquire and demand long-term exposure to the UK.


UK-based companies expect to have long-term relationships with their suppliers, working together to achieve sales targets, therefore Australian exporters should consider the UK as a long-term strategic destination.


Smaller distribution partners often specialise in a particular product sector and may service customers on a regional basis or may supply only certain types of retailer. An Australian exporter may require more than one UK distribution partner in order to access the entire market.


It should be noted that the number of experienced distributors is limited, and it is important to check for conflicts of interest. You may need to work with a smaller or less experienced company as a long-term project and build sales gradually.


Most UK distributors will be working on a 20–30 per cent margin, and the retailer will be looking for significantly more. As a general rule, multiply the landed price by 250 per cent to get to the retail price. The level of margin will depend on the unit value of the product, projected sales volumes and the product category.


Competitors may advertise heavily in magazine and newspaper weekend supplements. For example, costs per page in The Daily Telegraph magazine are between $54,000–$76,000 plus. There are other less expensive media options, but costs are still higher than in Australia. You will be expected to contribute towards promotional expenses and other costs.


Think carefully about your target consumer before presenting your products to a UK buyer.  Don’t assume that your British consumer will have the same characteristics or habits as your Australian consumers. 


Research the market and your potential competitors thoroughly before making contact with customers and take advice from your UK distributor. You will need to tailor your presentation to each retailer in order to be successful. Visit as many stores as possible to build up a picture of the retailer’s consumer base and consider how your product fits their needs and aspirations.


When presenting your product to a UK retailer, either direct or via your UK distributor, you will need to consider the following:

  • What is the value to the retailer of listing your product?
  • How does your product fit in the current product offering?
  • Who are the target buyers?
  • What is the projected level of sales?
  • What will the retail price be?
  • What margins are expected by the retailer and distributor?
  • How you are going to promote the product?
  • Are you willing to alter the product to suit the retailer?
  • Is an exclusivity deal appropriate?

Are you are ready to provide product samples or swatches? UK companies prefer to have brochures and product samples, rather than relying on websites for information. Use of the Internet is widespread, but a brochure or sample in the buyer’s hand tends to make a faster impact.  Brochures don’t need to be expensive, but they should:

  • Accurately project the values of your company
  • Include technical information
  • Give full details of all products in the range
  • Mention the benefits of the product to the customer – perhaps include an Australian case study

Pricing information should be provided separately. It should also be in UK pounds where possible, or at least in Australian dollars with reference to a current exchange rate.


Most major retailers in the UK have incorporated the Internet into their business strategy. Most have websites with a brochure format for products. Some have added an interactive sales facility for consumers, but business-to-business sales are not well developed. 


If you offer your products for sale to the UK and Europe over the Internet, you will need to comply with British and European laws.

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Links and industry contacts

Textiles and clothing-related resources

Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry – www.asbci.co.uk
British Footwear Association – www.britfoot.com
British Interior Textiles Association – www.interiortextiles.co.uk
Confederation of British Wool Textiles – www.cbwt.co.uk
National Children’s Wear Association – www.ncwa.co.uk
Sports Textiles – www.sportstextiles.com
Sports Textiles and Footwear Association – www.thesportslife.com
The Textile Institute – www.texi.org

Government, business and trade resources for the United Kingdom

British Standards Institute – www.bsi-global.com
Department of Trade and Industry – www.dti.gov.uk/sectors/clothing.htm
European Union Portal – http://europa.eu.int/index-en.htm
HM Customs & Excise – www.hmrc.gov.uk
Trading Standards – www.tradingstandards.gov.uk
UK Government Portal – www.ukonline.gov.uk
UK Statistics – www.statistics.gov.uk
UK Trade and Investment - www.uktradeinvest.gov.uk

Service providers

Benair Freight Management – www.benair.co.uk 

Media

Drapers Record - www.emap.co.uk
Textile Month - www.textilemonth.com
World Textile Publications - www.world-textile.net

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Contact details

The Australian Trade Commission (Austrade) is the Australian Government’s trade and investment development agency, operating as a statutory agency within the Foreign Affairs and Trade portfolio.

Austrade assists Australian businesses contribute to national prosperity by succeeding in trade and investment, internationally, and promoting and supporting productive foreign investment into Australia.

Austrade:

  • Delivers services that assist Australian businesses initiate, sustain and grow trade and outward investment.
  • Promotes Australia as an inward investment destination and, with the States and Territories, supports the inflow of productive foreign direct investment.
  • Administers the Export Market Development Grants scheme.
  • Undertakes initiatives designed to improve community awareness of, and commitment to, international trade and investment.
  • Provides advice to the Australian Government on its trade and investment development activities.
  • Delivers consular, passport and other government services in designated overseas locations.

A list of Austrade offices (in alphabetical order of country) is available.

More information

For further information please contact Austrade on 13 28 78 or email info@austrade.gov.au

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